Friday, October 21, 2016

Painting Isorians: Phase One

Let's get things started off with some shaded basecoat!  For those who are not familiar with this concept, I have dozens of articles covering it, as well as many painting videos on USB drives.  Towards the end of this article, I will put a link or two to the main articles on this subject.

As always, I try to keep the colors as simple as possible, which is a major advantage of the shaded basecoat approach.  I will also be using the #8 round craft brushes.  You will see how durable and utilitarian these are!

The entire surface of the figure is covered as rapidly as possible, not worrying about 'lines' or edges.  I want to be able to add the subsequent layers of color while this is still wet, so working fast is a priority.  The bigger brushes also assist in this task.

The "shading" part of the shaded basecoat is done with these worn down #8 round brushes.  Take a look at the shape of the tip shown on the inset image, and how it looks more flat.  This is more like a filbert brush, which is perfect for getting these lighter layers applied rapidly.

Using the textures of the figure itself is very important.  I am trying to touch the lighter colors to the raised surfaces, but not with a drybrushing technique.  This is something I call damp brushing, where the brush still has a decent amount of paint in the bristles.

The brush is held at a very shallow angle to the figure, and it is dragged across the surface gently.  That will leave the lighter layers of paint where you want them, right along those upper edges.

Without cleaning the brush at all, progressively lighter layers are applied by adding more of the bright yellow to the mix.  The brush continues to hold that 'filbert' shape.

The shaded basecoat phase of the lighter parts of the color scheme are almost ready.  Keep in mind that the idea is to block in the lighter colors quickly, and then go back in with subsequent glazes and tinting to get the details in the shadows.

A blueish purple will be added over the top of the dark red of the shoulder armor plates, which will be lightened in a similar manner as the orange.

The main image and the inset show that more rapid fire application of light tones was added with the worn down #8 round brush.

There's a big difference between this figure and the finished one in the background... and this illustrates what the shaded basecoat allows you to do.  It's possible for me to not just darken the colors of the armor, but tint them in any way I need.

For example, I can use a variety of dark reddish glazes on this blue/purple to make it look more like that completed figure.  Instead of using a ton of different colors, and worrying about formulas and color mixes, I can "seek out" the darkness and tone of the colors more easily.

It gets even more fun as I add in the glowing colors, starting with the fluorescent paints.  

The fluorescent paint is very transparent, but it is also very thick.  This is a very unusual consistency for most people.  I added the lighter green color to make this more opaque, and help it flow a little better.  I will tone this down with glazing and tinting just like I will on the rest of the colors.

Stay tuned for part two, where all this glazing and tinting will be covered!

Here's a link to another shaded basecoat article: