This Quietus figure from the Saint Johan faction gave me a chance to do some classic NMM technique on the sword blades. The kind of swords I have done lately have not give me the opportunity to do things like the spectral highlights in the center of the blades.
One key little secret to helping yourself get nice results on things like these sword is to file down the sword edges to as sharp a pint as possible. I use a hard rubber jeweler's block with my tiny files to make this possible. Pressing the file against the block keeps the sword from bending!
I used shadow grey, a dark brown, Astronomicon grey, and even a bright pink to paint the blades. I used the dark brown to shade the lower part of the blades to reflect the ground. The pink on the upper half was a warm/cool contrast with the Shadow grey (still with a hint of purple, though!), which would make that upper "sky" facing part of the sword pop.
Sweet Potato has found a new friend to play with!
I know this isn't really the best place to ask this, but I couldn't find an email address or a place to message you. I really like your NMM style- I've been working on trying to improve my own. I can't figure out how to paint a vertical cylinder though- like a metal pole. I have a few banners in my army and I just don't know how the NMM is supposed to look on them. Any suggestions or examples? Thanks!
ReplyDeleteWhen I do banner poles, I try to decide which part is going to be the highlight area. This is almost always the front facing. I tend to use Astronomicon grey in an area such as that, while the darker areas would be a shadow grey/black mixture.
DeleteI also do a bit if reflected light on the opposite side of the pole from the highlight. That would be a rotting flesh or something grey/green which I would mix in with my dark colors.
While these colors would be carried from the top of the pole to the bottom, I still made sure that my lightest highlights would be at the top of the pole.
I hope that helps!