Tuesday, July 22, 2014

A glaze here and a shade there


Glazing!  We have an array of glazing materials out here, including some of the Secret Weapon washes.  I have a range of reddish umber to more green/brown, all the way to blue and black.


Beginning with these blue and black glazes, I started to hit the darkest recesses of the metals.  This is the key... glazes are controlled washes, so you target certain areas with them.


The glazes out on the palette.  These are used in more of a watercolor fashion.  They will be mixed together, and also with water.


So, a more pure mix is placed in the recess...


And the outer edge is drawn away using a watered down brush, holding it at an angle.  You can see how the hard edge is gone, and it is 'feathered' to nothing! :-)


This is done in many areas of the metal, trying to create a variety of light and shadows.  Notice how the lighter colors of the stone work are much more visible with the increased contrast.

I did something very similar with the stone work, using the sepia, armor wash, and baby poop.  I also mixed in the blue and black in places, so that some parts would be 'warmer' and others 'cooler'.


Once again, the idea is to make the lights lighter by doing what is called "negative painting".  That means painting the dark areas around a lighter color, as opposed to piling up layers of lighter colors.

I have said many times that several transparent layers take less time to apply than on or two opaque layers!


Now for the Reaper liner paints.  I LOVE these.  I use them all the time.  They are super high pigment colors, but they are very dark.  They are also relatively thin, which means that they can be excellent colors for enhancing dark areas with semi- transparent applications.


With these darkest colors, I began enhancing the lines between the stones, and also darkening entire blocks, so that it looked like it was either stained or a different type of stone altogether.


Now we are ready for weathering!  Stay tuned!


Something from DragonForge


Normally I make my own bases, but there are times that I am handed bases to paint.  

Here we have some rather large, if not huge, bases from DragonForge Designs.


The process of painting them, however, is much the same as my own.  Most of you will recognize the similarities to the bases I made recently with the Happy Seppuku moulds.

I began with the usual blue/gray, using the filbert brush.


I would continue with the filbert brush, lightening my grays.  Keep note that I did change the tint of the gray, using greenish off whites, neutral gray, and so on, to vary the colors.


I work very quickly, attempting to establish the value patterns rapidly.


Metal sections now in a happy place, so now for the rest!


The colors for the stone work would also be varied, but these will probably be more noticeable than the gray.  I also want to be sure to make a complimentary value pattern to the grays.


That means having lighter stone colors near the darker section of the gray, and vice verse, all the while changing the colors a bit.


This image shows that process a little better.  It's a series of interlocking lights and darks.  That is particularly important on large bases like this, so that you keep things interesting.


As always, keep in mind that the Shaded Basecoat technique means that you are working a bit lighter than normal, so that you have the 'space' to do your glazing and tinting later!


The palette reveals the simple color choices, and the larger, broader strokes that the filbert brush provides.


All set for that glazing phase!!!!  Stay tuned.


Monday, July 21, 2014

Avast there!


To the way back machine once again, this time for something I have only ever painted once so far.  This was part of a batch of Micronauts ships.  Really tiny buggers!

Knowing what I do now, it would have been WAY easier to do.


It would be way easier to glue the pieces together now, and it certainly would be easier to paint.  I have learned so much about glazing ans such... those sails would be a lot easier, and have more depth.

I would also do more to reflect the 'ocean' colors on the sails... like this painting that I did many years ago :-)


I had fun making the water effects, done with sculpey.  I put the nameplate on there so that we could interchange the names of the ships... I couldn't resist having some fun with a crazy name. ;-)


Sailing away!!!  I do look forward to trying more of these in the future!  Stay tuned.




Signing up...


As I moved along with the caboose, I laid out a bit of freehand to match the engine.


This seemed to be a good spot...


Working the outline for the moment, so that I could make sure it was in the right place.


Bringing over the train number as well...


Some shading on the secondary armament also!


The view from above.


Turrets getting some glazing!


More glazing to come, and then rust/weathering!


Sunday, July 20, 2014

A old dog yielded new tricks


Here's something that I painted many moons ago.  Probably in 2006.  This was the height of the Rackham days, when we painted lots of Confrontation minis.  Our favorites were the wolfen.

Unfortunately, the alloys that were used were very soft, so these didn't always have the sturdiest construction.  There are a number of companies nowadays who I think are producing some very nice versions of these.


I know that I have a few new Reaper minis that are very much in line with these old Wolfen.  Also, Raging Heroes has some amazing female werewolves coming up!

Can't wait to paint those!!!


Strange power


When I saw this section of the last train car, it seemed appropriate to go with the same glow effect that I had done on the engine.  Out came the fluorescent paints!


Basic glow effect achieved.  Adjustments will be made later on, once I have seen how the glazes on the darker surfaces play out.


I also needed to get the shaded basecoat going on the brass sections as well.


Things are starting to develop!


Both turrets have their shaded basecoat.


More work on the brass.  Again, this is just the planning stage for where the lights and darks will go on these sweeping surfaces.  That, as I said before, could be very challenging!


It's ironic that it can be a lot easier to do these effects on much tinier figures.

Huge broad surfaces like this with undulating curves like a golf green can be confusing.  Just where do you put light and dark.  There are times where you have to be creative, and make changes to get contrast.

In addition, color temperature will be used to get some additional contrast.  That will happen in the glazing stage and beyond.


Saturday, July 19, 2014

The constructs of Pseusenes


These are among my more eagerly awaited new photographs using the Hangar 18 backdrops... my scratch sculpted Tomb Kings constructs!

We start out with the Hierotitan.  I had a blast making this guy.  A tin foil armature, wrapped in layers of Apoxy sculpt, and finished with some green stuff details.


There are a number of WIP posts showing the process of building this guy, along with the painting.


Next up is the Colossus.  I used the same methods to sculpt him as well.


These are both quite large, when you consider that they are standing on 50mm bases!


Here they are on the large blue/white fade, along with one piece of the display board.  That obelisk tells the story of the first corruption of Pseusenes, followed by the second fall to the Tzeentch god.


One more on the 'regular' backdrop...


And now on the brown backdrop.  A very different look!


This is actually very similar to how they appear on the top level of the army board.


They are standing above the underground Temple Complex, guarding the entrance.


Hapless artifact looters dismiss them as statues, only to find the error of their ways in a very bloody fashion!


One more image of the big guys.  I think I will do the Necrosphinx and Warsphinx next...