Thursday, October 27, 2016

Calling in the Strike

We're almost done working our way through the Sledgehammer crew!  I did get a chance to see the final production plastic kit at Reapercon, and that seemed to snap right together.

This was a sample cast of different materials, so I believe the final versions will have a few small differences to what I worked on.

Just like the previous crew members, I thought it would be fun to go with the German Field Green.  I was painting some Bolt Action Germans at the time for my France '40 campaign, and "matching up" colors from various projects helps to increase painting efficiency a great deal!

This one had a few red and gold accents, which was a nice extra touch.

The same mud treatment as the gun and other crew helped to make those brighter accents stand out a bit more...

One more peek at the crew, hard at work!

Wednesday, October 26, 2016

The Fastest Gun

Here's another one of those Artizan Designs western style figures that I used to augment my WWX collection.  These would be used as civilians or NPC's in certain scenarios.

That is an interesting element to add to any game.  I was thinking about adding this mechanic to Bolt Action games, as time after time refugees would clog the few passable roads in the countryside of various fronts.

This guy was a fun exercise in contrasting a somewhat more saturated sienna colored vest with more muted cool colors.  Even the white shirt is considered one of these cool colors.

Tuesday, October 25, 2016

It takes a crew: Part 3

This guy is another member of the Sledgehammer crew from Victoria Miniatures.  As with the rest of the crew, I went with a German Field Grey.  In some ways, the uniforms seemed more like WWI inspired, which mean that I could have gone with straight up grey.

However, with so much grey on the artillery piece. I wanted to incorporate some kind of color!

If I get another chance to work on this, I will probably try to do more of a camoflauge pattern on the gun, and more of a Second World War look to the crew.

Monday, October 24, 2016

It takes a crew: Part 2

This lady definitely knows how to get a troublesome gun carriage fixed in a hurry!  One or two whacks with that wrench should do the trick.

Just like the other crew members for the giant Sledgehammer artillery piece, I went with the greenish grey on the coats to get a little bit of color contrast with the gun, which was all neutral grey.

I also splashed a little Ammo mud effects on the base, and the figure itself.  This helped to tie in the crew and the artillery piece to the bases, and to each other.

Saturday, October 22, 2016

Painting Isorians: Phase Two

Time to complete the Isorian trooper!  With the Shaded Basecoat phase complete, everything is set up for the glazing stage.  The colors are very simple, a combination of a red glaze color and a brighter yellow glaze.

The red and yellow are mixed together to various degrees, and used in the recess areas.  I even wiped away some of the glaze in places where I wanted the highlight colors to remain.  The inset image shows where darker red glazes were used to enhance the shadow areas.

To make these shadow areas even darker, I added some transparent deep red from Vallejo.  This is one of several 'transparent' colors made by Vallejo.  For example, the Transparent Red is excellent for blood effects!

While it is a very 'dark' color, it does not cover in the way a more opaque version might.  When combined with a bit of the red glaze, you have a fantastic, deep, dark red glaze.

Here's another transparent dark color.  This is one of the Reaper liner paints.  I have all of them... blue, brown, grey, green, etc.  Here I mixed this blue liner with the transparent red to create a very dark brown glaze for the deepest darks on the reddish parts of the figure and even the shell of the weapon.

The fluorescent green is introduced again, this time combined with Reaper clear green.  This is similar to the liner and transparent paints.  It helps give a little more 'body' to the fluorescent green, which is typically very transparent.  While the fluorescent paint is very thick, always keep this in mind!

You can see how the bright green has been toned down a bit... darkened around the edges.  I will go back in with lighter colors to establish the lightest part of the glowing effect.

Using the original bright green, I mix that into the fluorescent paint to get those lighter tones in the glow.  I also add those lighter accents to places where I want the glow to reflect.  This is how a glowing effect is established, since simply having a light color next to a darker shade is not quite enough.

This images shows you the light which is cast on the surfaces around the gun.  You do want to keep in mind where the logical places would be to locate this color, and not overdo it too much!

Now I am going to put in a few mid tones and highlights into the orange sections, taking advantage of all the darker shades that were achieved when I applied the darker glazes.  This works well whenever you have rougher areas when the glazes didn't go on as smoothly as you wanted!

Lighter colors are also being added to the upper sections of the armor plates, using some of the original pink as well as a touch of blueish white.

Now for a few quick images of the finished miniature.  The interplay of the shadows and lights help to form all the shapes of the organic armor plates, and give the weapon a little bit of a glow!

Friday, October 21, 2016

Painting Isorians: Phase One

Let's get things started off with some shaded basecoat!  For those who are not familiar with this concept, I have dozens of articles covering it, as well as many painting videos on USB drives.  Towards the end of this article, I will put a link or two to the main articles on this subject.

As always, I try to keep the colors as simple as possible, which is a major advantage of the shaded basecoat approach.  I will also be using the #8 round craft brushes.  You will see how durable and utilitarian these are!

The entire surface of the figure is covered as rapidly as possible, not worrying about 'lines' or edges.  I want to be able to add the subsequent layers of color while this is still wet, so working fast is a priority.  The bigger brushes also assist in this task.

The "shading" part of the shaded basecoat is done with these worn down #8 round brushes.  Take a look at the shape of the tip shown on the inset image, and how it looks more flat.  This is more like a filbert brush, which is perfect for getting these lighter layers applied rapidly.

Using the textures of the figure itself is very important.  I am trying to touch the lighter colors to the raised surfaces, but not with a drybrushing technique.  This is something I call damp brushing, where the brush still has a decent amount of paint in the bristles.

The brush is held at a very shallow angle to the figure, and it is dragged across the surface gently.  That will leave the lighter layers of paint where you want them, right along those upper edges.

Without cleaning the brush at all, progressively lighter layers are applied by adding more of the bright yellow to the mix.  The brush continues to hold that 'filbert' shape.

The shaded basecoat phase of the lighter parts of the color scheme are almost ready.  Keep in mind that the idea is to block in the lighter colors quickly, and then go back in with subsequent glazes and tinting to get the details in the shadows.

A blueish purple will be added over the top of the dark red of the shoulder armor plates, which will be lightened in a similar manner as the orange.

The main image and the inset show that more rapid fire application of light tones was added with the worn down #8 round brush.

There's a big difference between this figure and the finished one in the background... and this illustrates what the shaded basecoat allows you to do.  It's possible for me to not just darken the colors of the armor, but tint them in any way I need.

For example, I can use a variety of dark reddish glazes on this blue/purple to make it look more like that completed figure.  Instead of using a ton of different colors, and worrying about formulas and color mixes, I can "seek out" the darkness and tone of the colors more easily.

It gets even more fun as I add in the glowing colors, starting with the fluorescent paints.  

The fluorescent paint is very transparent, but it is also very thick.  This is a very unusual consistency for most people.  I added the lighter green color to make this more opaque, and help it flow a little better.  I will tone this down with glazing and tinting just like I will on the rest of the colors.

Stay tuned for part two, where all this glazing and tinting will be covered!

Here's a link to another shaded basecoat article:

Thursday, October 20, 2016

It takes a crew, Part 1

Here's the first crew member from the Sledgehammer gun from Victoria miniatures!

While the gun itself is hard plastic, the crew are in resin.  There is a mix of male and female crew... six in all.  The plotter is one of my favorites!

As I mentioned in the main post, I thought I would go with the early WW2 German Field Green on the coats.  With the gun carriage being grey, I thought this small 'splash' of color might be a good idea.

It would be fun to try the whole piece again and paint the gun in more of a camo scheme, putting some leaf clumps or even netting on it!

Stay tuned for the next crew feature...