Saturday, October 22, 2016

Painting Isorians: Phase Two

Time to complete the Isorian trooper!  With the Shaded Basecoat phase complete, everything is set up for the glazing stage.  The colors are very simple, a combination of a red glaze color and a brighter yellow glaze.

The red and yellow are mixed together to various degrees, and used in the recess areas.  I even wiped away some of the glaze in places where I wanted the highlight colors to remain.  The inset image shows where darker red glazes were used to enhance the shadow areas.

To make these shadow areas even darker, I added some transparent deep red from Vallejo.  This is one of several 'transparent' colors made by Vallejo.  For example, the Transparent Red is excellent for blood effects!

While it is a very 'dark' color, it does not cover in the way a more opaque version might.  When combined with a bit of the red glaze, you have a fantastic, deep, dark red glaze.

Here's another transparent dark color.  This is one of the Reaper liner paints.  I have all of them... blue, brown, grey, green, etc.  Here I mixed this blue liner with the transparent red to create a very dark brown glaze for the deepest darks on the reddish parts of the figure and even the shell of the weapon.

The fluorescent green is introduced again, this time combined with Reaper clear green.  This is similar to the liner and transparent paints.  It helps give a little more 'body' to the fluorescent green, which is typically very transparent.  While the fluorescent paint is very thick, always keep this in mind!

You can see how the bright green has been toned down a bit... darkened around the edges.  I will go back in with lighter colors to establish the lightest part of the glowing effect.

Using the original bright green, I mix that into the fluorescent paint to get those lighter tones in the glow.  I also add those lighter accents to places where I want the glow to reflect.  This is how a glowing effect is established, since simply having a light color next to a darker shade is not quite enough.

This images shows you the light which is cast on the surfaces around the gun.  You do want to keep in mind where the logical places would be to locate this color, and not overdo it too much!

Now I am going to put in a few mid tones and highlights into the orange sections, taking advantage of all the darker shades that were achieved when I applied the darker glazes.  This works well whenever you have rougher areas when the glazes didn't go on as smoothly as you wanted!

Lighter colors are also being added to the upper sections of the armor plates, using some of the original pink as well as a touch of blueish white.

Now for a few quick images of the finished miniature.  The interplay of the shadows and lights help to form all the shapes of the organic armor plates, and give the weapon a little bit of a glow!

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